Hannah Hem Hack-Skip The $68 Price Tag

This really isn’t a hack, more of a simple mod, but I couldn’t resist the title of Hannah Hem Hack. It was just too much fun.

I’ve made a Hannah in quilted, a quilted and brushed French Terry combo, and a poly skimo hacci. You can see them here.  So when I decided to recreate this pin ($68 price tag, no thank you), I pulled out my left over plaid super plush from last year.

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I really wanted to have the black contrast collar, so I cut into my hoarded black super plush, for the collar lining and it was just right.

The Hannah pattern is banded at the bottom and the sleeves are cuffed, so to recreate this pin, I needed to alter it just a little for a hem.

To start with I added the amount of the bottom band, to the hem of the bodice, plus a bit more for my 1″ hem. I usually like a 1/2″ hem, but for super plush I prefer a larger hem since it is so squishy. I made my marks off the bottom of the original bodice pieces, and drew a line to indicate my new bottom hem.

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Then I needed to draw my new side seams. Since it has a slight widening at the hem and I didn’t want to continue that line and make a flare, I brought it in a little and blended into the original side seams.

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When all was said and done, I ended up taking an inch back off the hem after I tried it on, which gave me a total addition of 3.5″. I did this to both the front and back bodice pieces.

I followed the same steps for the sleeves and added 4.25″ to them. The only difference to the sleeves was that they taper in at the hem. Since I didn’t want them too tight, I wrapped a scrap piece of fabric around my wrist to determine how snug of a fit I wanted. Then I added a little to the fabric length to account for seam allowance, and that was what I made the width of the sleeve at the hem. Then I blended the lines in to the original sleeve seams for my new pieces.

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I made no other changes to the pattern and with those two simple mods, I now have a hem option Hannah.

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The Hannah is on new release sale for $5 until Sunday 11/3, midnight EST. The fabric is super plush from So Sew English. With a total price tag of $30, it is a bit more up my alley, and it’s custom fit to top it off.

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This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.

Three years waiting and just in time

Several years ago I found a pullover I fell in love with. After seeing it, I found a few pictures of similar ones on Pinterest and saved them to my inspiration board so I wouldn’t forget details about them. I spent time shopping for fabric and trying to find the pattern. After finally giving up the pattern search last year, I found a mens pattern that I figured I could hack to make my pullover.

The cold season quickly changes here and I never got a chance to attempt my hacking. So when Sonia decided to make the Hannah pattern, I literally jumped up and down with joy. Now, I get to start making all the Hannah’s, with all the fabric, I have been accumulating for the past three years. And not a moment too soon, with the weather just starting to change, I will have plenty of time to wear them all.

Hannah has cuffed sleeves, a banded hem, a quarter zip, and the options of a hood or collar. Both the hood and collar are lined and you even have the option to finish them with bias binding around the neckline. There is also an optional kangaroo pocket.

My first Hannah is in a grey quilted fabric from So Sew English. I had planned to use a contrasting bias in a dark blue color, to match my zipper tape. Unfortunately, when I went to the store, I grabbed the wrong one. I ended up finishing the collar with the other pattern option and I still love how it turned out.

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I did the collar and kangaroo pocket options for this grey quilted, and used an 11″ zipper.  I am ridiculously proud of this kangaroo pocket. Can we take a moment to enjoy how it lines up??

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My next Hannah is also made from quilted, but this time it is the ivory, and I only used it on the bodice, hem band, and the outer hood. For the rest of the hoodie, I used a super soft brushed French Terry. Both fabrics are from So Sew English Fabrics.

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On this one, I skipped the kangaroo pocket, and did the hood option.

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When I did the zipper on this one, I really wanted to try a 10″ length, but I only had 9″ and 11″ zippers. So I used an 11″ zipper, and did the assembly as though it was a 10″ zipper. When I got to the step of trimming the hood stand, I just cut off my extra zipper length. My stop got cut off, but it didn’t affect my zipper at all, as it was sewn into the hood corner.

This third one is so comfy! I got this poly skimo hacci last year from Sincerely Rylee fabrics. It is a slightly open weave, yet warm, and I just love this wine color with the little black flecks.

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For this one, I also did the hood option with no kangaroo pocket, but I used the bias binding option, to finish off the hood neckline. It looks so pretty!

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I love the length on the Hannah. I added my usual length for my height, and it hits just right. I can easily wear it with leggings or a pair of jeans, if I want.

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I have a few more Hannah’s planned, including a simple mod to make it without cuffs and a band. That mod will be up on here shortly, so be sure to come back and check it out.

Enabler alert: The Hannah from Sonia Estep Designs, is on sale for 50% off during it’s release sale, ending Sunday 11/3, at midnight.

This post may contain affiliate links. This means, if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.

Two pattern hacks – I love fringe

Sewing is creative. It can also be a challenge. It is something that causes me a myriad of emotions from stress to euphoria, and I can’t seem to get enough of it. One of my greatest sewing joys is hacking patterns. I love taking something and making it into something else. Letting my creative process run wild and seeing what happens.

I will find myself purchasing a fabric, not knowing how it will be used, just that I love it and someday I will figure out what it needs to be. That was what happened when I got this Walter plaid woven, back in 2017. This fabric sat in my cabinets for a “little while” and then along came the pattern and an idea formed.

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I used the Callie Cardi from Sonia Estep Designs, vest option. It is drafted for knits but only needs a minimum of 20% stretch. It also has quite a bit of ease so it was a good candidate for a woven hack. I made a size 10, and sized up the upper portion of the bodice, to a 14. The only places it pulled, was across the shoulder blades on the back, and that two size addition was enough to stop that. I probably could have gotten away with just sizing up one, but I didn’t want to chance it being too snug, so I went two. I love it as is. I started at a 14, at the underarm point and graded it down to a 10. You can see part of my grading path in the picture below.

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Once I had that graded, I knew I wanted to add some length, both to the cardigan itself and to the front waterfall. To determine the overall length, I measured the length of the dress I made and added the needed amount to the cardi, to have it hit around the same part on my back. I know, super scientific 😉. It ended up being about 5 inches.

To lengthen the front waterfall pieces, I just extended it as far as my fabric would allow. Since I had it folded in half to make my mirror front pieces, this ended up being about 7 inches. Again, super scientific. Then I redrew my front line to keep the shape of the pattern piece.

I sewed up the cardigan, folded the armscyse back 1/2″ and hemmed them, per the pattern. Then came the fun part. I frayed all the remaining edges to create a fun fringe look. If you like watching things, I have a short video tutorial on my youtube, showing how I did this.

If you like to read about it, I added a straight stitch all the way around, 1″ from the edge, to keep it from fraying more.

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Then I grabbed my seam ripper and a pin and started pulling out the threads.

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It took a while at first, but then I figured out how the threads were woven and it went much faster. I am obsessed with the finished product! Look at all that gorgeous fringe !!

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To finish off my idea, I needed a slim fit dress to wear with it. The Magnolia Tee released with the Callie Cardi and was the perfect base to turn into a coordinating dress. I loved the cupro I used for my first Magnolia tee (blogged here) so I looked at the color options that might work with this woven. The solid grey from So Sew English Fabrics, was just the right one! It almost has a blue tone to it, which I really love.

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To make the dress, I just measured where I wanted the hem to hit on my body, and added the needed amount to the pattern. I had already added 1″ in the upper bodice, to account for my 9″ side waist, so I added an additional 5″ to the bottom curved hemline.

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I connected my dashes and redrew the side line, creating my new pattern piece. I repeated the same steps on the back bodice so they would match, and that was it.

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I will definitely wear this dress on it’s own, but I do think I need a different pair of shoes for that. I tried on my fluffy grey boots with it and my daughter said it looked like pjs. Maybe a pair of white tennis shoes? What do you think? Have any shoe suggestions for me?

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I can’t get enough of this combo. The waterfall look really showcases the fringe and I couldn’t be happier with this two pattern hack.

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The Callie Cardi is on sale for $5 through Sunday, September 22. If you want to get the Magnolia Tee for free, check out the Sonia Estep Designs facebook group. There is a code in the comments of the first announcement post.

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I hope this inspired you to let your creativity run wild and maybe hack your own patterns. Happy creating 💕

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.

Transitional Pieces – Magnolia and Callie

I love transitional wardrobe pieces. They usually are made with lighter weight fabrics and have options that allow you to layer. Since I live in the desert and it’s hot, transitional pieces allow me to pretend it is cooler than it really is 😂 I am especially liking the Callie Cardi and Magnolia Tee from Sonia Estep Designs, the options make them great for  our 100* temps but allow for me to prepare for cooler temps with the simple changes of sleeve options.

The Magnolia Tee is a slim fit shirt featuring a scoop neckline, three sleeve lengths (short, 3/4, long) and the option of a straight or curved hem.The Callie Cardi has a beautiful waterfall effect and has the options of 3/4 sleeve, long sleeve, or the no sleeve vest.

Enabler alert, both are on sale, no code needed, for 50% off until Sunday night, September 22. Want an extra bonus?? If you join the Sonia Estep Designs Facebook group, there is a member only coupon in the comments of the announcement post, to get your Magnolia free! 🤫

Very rarely can I just make one of a new pattern, and these two are no different.

This first combo I used this Terra Cotta Cupro from So Sew English Fabrics, for my Magnolia. It was my first use of this fabric and I really liked it. It sewed up nicely and I like how it has drape but doesn’t seem to cling to certain things I don’t want it clinging to. The only drawback was when I came to the neckband, it wanted to curl when stretched.  Comparison wise, it curled less than rayon spandex, and the finished product was beautiful. If you want to see a little time lapse video of sewing up this Magnolia, you can on my youtube, here.

For this one I picked the curved hem and long sleeves. I did a few mods for my personal body fit, and I love it.

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To go with it I made a long sleeve Callie in this gorgeous abstract Ana Hacci.

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I had been eyeing this fabric for a while, hoping it would stay around until our weather was going to start cooling and it did. I have no idea how, it must have been destiny. For this one I decided not to hem, the fabric is really smooth at the edges and I liked how it looked un hemmed.

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And because it’s still hotter than all get out here, I found this fun crochet sweater knit and made myself a vest version.

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I absolutely love it with my knit denim Iris shorts (you can read about all my Iris shorts here) and my red modal Ponte Nicolette (you can read about all the ways I wear this one here), tied up. I will definitely be able to wear this over other things as the seasons change, but I am totally loving this outfit right now.

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Because I love hacking patterns, I also hacked the Magnolia into a dress and hacked the Callie too, even used a woven for it. Be sure to check back in a few days when that post goes live.

No matter where on the globe you live, preparing for Spring or Fall, the Magnolia and Callie are perfect transitional pieces.

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own

 

New patterns and my fabric comparison on 10 pairs of Iris shorts

I hate when I make a new top or a new bottom, and then realize I need something to wear with it. With these two new patterns, that just released, that problem is solved.

Let me give you a quick run down of the Tennessee Tee before we jump into my Iris short obsession and my current 10 pairs.

The Tennessee tee is a loose fit top with three necklines, the scoop, an overlap V, and a subtle overlap V. It has slightly dropped shoulders, which add to the “slouchy” look without it looking sloppy, and a straight hem. You can choose from three sleeve options, an oversized long sleeve, a regular short sleeve, and a flutter sleeve.  There are also two optional chest pockets. I love the simple assembly of the overlap V neck and it was my favorite version of the Tennessee. Then I made the scoop version and I’m loving it just as much. I have made three so far and can’t wait for some cooler weather so I can give the oversized long sleeve a try too.

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Mustard – overlap v neck, regular sleeve / Coral – subtle overlap v neck, flutter sleeve / Red – scoop neck, regular sleeve

I live in the desert. It’s hot here most of the year so I seem to live in shorts majority of the time. I never found the right pattern to encompass  everything I wanted in my everyday shorts so I settled for some store bought pairs and the occasional specific short pattern. I don’t have to settle anymore, Iris is my everyday (and night) knit short pattern.

The Iris shorts have three inseam lengths, 3.5″, 5″, and 8″. There are two waistbands to give you a low or a higher rise, and optional front and back pockets. The best part about the Iris shorts, I can make a pair from less than a yard. I even fussy cut and got a pair of high waist with front and back pockets, from a 22″ x wof scrap I had. Shorts as a scrap buster?? Yes please!

Like any inquisitive sewist, I was curious how the Iris shorts would look and wear in different fabrics. So I decided to give it a try and I made 10 pairs. To avoid this being one super long blog post I split it up into two. My fabric and fit comparison follows below, but if you want to see all the fun details like pockets and how I’m wearing my new Iris shorts, you can see all 10 outfits here.

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I know I love ponte for leggings, so I figured I would love it for shorts as well, but we all know that not all ponte is created equal. I have my favorite blend and source that I go back to time and time again, but I had something specific in mind for two outfits so I branched out a little when I didn’t have the two colors I needed in my stash. Hence the reason there are three pairs of ponte (four if you count the refined ponte) included in this comparison.

I made one pair in Liverpool, but since I did the 5″ inseam on it instead of the 3.5″, I did for all the others, I didn’t include it in the side by side comparison. The fit is pretty similar and the shorts are ridiculously comfy so I am planning on making a few more in Liverpool.

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These are all the 3.5″ inseam option with the higher waistband. The fabric types I used for the comparison are :
Top row (left to right)
Cotton FT denim 50%x100% (same fabric I used for my leggings here)
French Terry 30%x75% with Double Brushed Poly waistband 50%x100%
Double Brushed Poly 50%x100%
Middle row (left to right)
Refined Ponte 50%x75%
Double Knit 50%x50%
Jacquard Double Knit 30%x75%
Bottom row (left to right)
Ponte 25%x50%
Ponte 50%x50%
Ponte 75%x75%

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As you can see, most of the fits look similar. Where I noticed a slight difference was on the side shots. My thighs are smaller than my hip size is and while on some fabrics it wasn’t noticeable, I definitely noticed it more on the Cotton denim FT and the Animal print Refined Ponte. When looking at pictures they all look pretty much the same, but fit wise, I could tell a slight difference in my thigh space.

236AAE18-C321-4800-9179-5CF7414D3CE6I originally thought the DBP and FT would be more of a lounge look and just for home or to sleep, but I was surprised when I paired them with my tops at how non lounge they actually looked. Because of the amount of stretch my DBP had, I might have been able to slim down my sides and waistband a little, but they were comfy and didn’t fall off, so that would be a personal fit preference for sure.

If I had to pick a least favorite, it would probably be the refined ponte, and just because it feels a bit more structured than I like to wear for everyday shorts. They will still be worn though because I absolutely love them all.

I love the wide variation of stretch percentages and fabric bases I can use for this pattern. Next I want to try a pair in some athletic stretch mesh, and another Liverpool pair, ohhh and maybe a few more pairs in DBP or even MVC for sleeping. What fabric do you plan to use?

To see all my outfits, the details I did on each, and all the fabric sources check out my other blog post. Fair warning, there are lots of pictures 😉

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.

 

10 outfits, a pinspiration win, and Pockets

You read that right, I have 10 new outfits from about a week of sewing. I used the brand new Iris Shorts from Sonia Estep Designs for all these outfits. If you are curious about how they looked and fit with all the different fabrics I used, you can read my comparison post with side by side pictures, here.

Outfit number one.

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This is the brand new Tennessee Tee from Sonia Estep Designs, subtle overlap v neck, flutter sleeves. I used a heavy rayon spandex from So Sew English fabrics. This pair of Iris shorts has the 5″ inseam length, front pockets, and higher waistband, in Liverpool from Sincerely Rylee. I’ve had both fabrics in my stash for a while and they are just perfect together.

Outfit number two.

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This combo is the Iris shorts in this rocket pop FT with a DBP waistband. This is the 3.5″ inseam length, with the higher waistband. The same as all the following pairs. No pockets on this one, but I think I will add the front ones on my next FT pair. I am wearing  it with this brand new Tennessee Tee in red micro modal spandex. This is the scoop neck with regular sleeves. Both fabrics are from So Sew English.

Outfit number three.

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I just love this deep purple pair of Iris shorts! This pair has the front pockets and I used Ponte from Boho Fabrics. It is a different ponte than my usual in that it is lighter weight, with less stretch, but it sewed up beautifully and is super comfy. I’m wearing it with a rayon spandex Hey June Union St. Tee, from my closet.

Outfit number four.

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This pair of shorts was so hard to photograph. It is a charcoal black and has a subtle animal print, which I love, since I can wear it with so many different colored tops. It was my first experience with refined ponte and I think I’m going to make a pencil skirt with the left over fabric. I am wearing it with another newer fabric for me, cotton modal spandex. I used it the first time to make my daughter a top and it worked so well, I decided to make myself one to go with these shorts. The top is the CKC Kaitlyn. Both fabrics are from So Sew English.

Outfit number five.

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I know solid black shorts are kind of boring, but they are such a must have for me. This pair has both the front and the back pockets. I used my go to ponte from So Sew English, and would you believe I got it from a 22″ x wof scrap? It’s true, I did. I am wearing it with my coral Tennessee Tee.

I found this pin a while back and thought it was a good combo for Fall feels with Summer weather.IMG_7354

Which brings me to outfit number six.

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I branched out last year and tried two mustard colored things and liked them. So I decided to give this shade a try.  The top is my third Tennessee Tee, overlap v neck with regular sleeves. I used a modal spandex from Surge fabrics. It was my first order from them and I was impressed with the quality of the fabric. My Iris shorts are in a heavy ponte from Sly Fox fabrics. It has less stretch than my favorite ponte, but since this pattern doesn’t take much, it worked well.  This is a perfect example of taking inspiration and then tweaking it to your style. I’m totally calling this a Pinspiration win.

Outfit number seven.

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Confession. I got a three yard bundle of this fabric and since this pattern only takes minimal fabric, I have made three pairs in it and have a bunch left 😂. In my defense, two were test fits, but they all work and I wear them all. I am actually wearing one of them as I write this up. I had never used this type of double knit before and I really love it! It’s so soft and so comfy. I’m wearing it with a Union St Tee from Hey June Handmade, from my closet. This shirt is two years old, I wear it weekly, and it looks brand new. Mad kudos to So Sew English Modal!

Outfit number eight.

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I had fun with this pair of Iris shorts! Instead of rolling the hem under, I rolled it out and stitched it, to give it a cuffed look. Then I decided to do something extra with the back pockets and make a little topstitch design. If you have never tried something like that, I highly encourage you to try. You can free hand a design or do a quick internet search for designs.

I trace one side of the design with chalk, lay it on the pocket and trace the other side of the design to transfer it to the pocket. Then you take the side you just traced, place it down on the other pocket, trace the line again, and it is mirrored on your other pocket. Then topstitch it on your sewing machine. Really simple and now I have custom pockets. This pair was made with denim cotton FT (the same I used for these leggings). It has sold out but they have a new one that I’m hearing is even better. I am wearing it with my red Tennessee tee. Both fabrics are from So Sew English.

Outfit number nine.

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Y’all know I love camo. This pair was another try at a new fabric base and I am so happy with them! I used a Camo jacquard double knit from SSE. There is another color way of this print available too and I think I may need to grab some. I’m wearing it with a CKC Kaitlyn in modal, from my closet.

Outfit number ten.

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Did I mention how little fabric this shorts pattern takes? This pair of Iris shorts was another scrap buster for me with some left over Chloe DBP. I was planning on using them for sleeping or for lounge shorts, but I was surprised with how non lounge they actually looked. They are super comfy so I will definitely be making more in DBP for sleeping, but I like that I can still wear them for errands.

I can’t pick a favorite, I tried, but I love them all and am so happy to finally have my perfect everyday knit shorts pattern.

Enabler Alert – Both the Iris shorts and Tennessee Tee are on new release sale for 50% off.

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.

 

 

Styling my first Red dress – Nicolette

I like solids because they really make it easy to include the pieces in several different outfits. So when I decided to make my first red dress and I wasn’t sure how I was going to wear it, I went through my closet and just let my imagination run wild. I came up with so many combinations but decided to just share these 7 with you all. It was 108* when I was taking these pictures and after number 7, things were getting a little rough 😂. So 7 it is.

This dress is the just released Nicolette from Sonia Estep Designs. If you missed my last post with all the details, the other two I have made, and my armpit sniffing pose, you can get caught up here.

First, my straight up red dress, solo. (Now I’m singing red solo cup in my head, as I type this).  I love the seam down the back, it adds just a little something to the dress. I have worn this with tennis shoes and with sandals both. It is perfect for errands, out to dinner, or just chilling at home doing kitchen DIY.

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For this look I grabbed an infinity scarf I had. A quick wrap around my neck and it changes the dress from summer to spring, or even fall if you live in warm climates. I could also see this with a lightweight woven scarf for summer.

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This next one I added my jean jacket to it. You can roll up the sleeves or even combine the scarf and jacket if you wanted to add another option.

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This cardigan was one of my first additions of red in my wardrobe and I was so happy it complements this Nicolette so well. This is perfect to take to those freezing movie theaters or even a cold grocery shopping trip. Can’t you just see it with some knee high boots too??  I can not wait for cooler weather to get here so I can wear this combo.

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Since it IS so hot here, I’m happy this breezy woven, kimono sleeve cover up, also works with this Nicolette. I was iffy on the color combo between the two, but I definitely will be making more with some other wovens I have my eye on. Pool party anyone?

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Did you know you could tie a knot in your Nicolette and make it a top to wear with your favorite pair of shorts?? If the knot look isn’t for you, the Nicolette also has a shirt option included.ED2968A6-4BDA-415D-8042-17143BE417F6

How about swapping your shorts for a pair of leggings? Just pull down the scrunch and now you have a booty covering top with a cute knot.

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I was really having a good time trying out so many new looks with this one dress. I even got commentary from the kids on which was their favorite. Any guesses as to which?

If you haven’t gotten your Nicolette yet, you haven’t missed out. It is still on sale for 50% off until Sunday, 7/7 Midnite EST. How will you wear it?

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.