Tank Hack for a Pinspiration Jumpsuit

Yup, Pinterest strikes again.  This time I was testing a new pattern from Sonia Estep Designs, the Hollywood. When I made my muslin fit, I tried it on before adding the sleeves and I knew right then I needed it to be a tank. Naturally, I scrolled Pinterest to get some color ideas and came across this fun version.

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Yes! This was happening. I went fabric shopping and found steel cupro slub and black cupro pique from Surge fabrics. I have really liked cupro the last two times I used it. It has a little stretch vertical, and about 50% horizontal. I love that it doesn’t have a ton of vertical stretch, which helps longer garments like these pants or a skirt, keep its shape. It is just annoying to make something and then it grows inches after putting it on. No issues with that using this cupro, and it has nice drape.

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Now, I took my hack a little further than just making it a tank, by color blocking my neckband and arm band pieces to match the bodice colors. I also added in the solid black stripe on the legs. Doing the extra color matching added some more math, but over all, converting it to a tank is relatively simple.

Since I liked where the fit was on my non sleeve muslin, I knew I just needed to do a small adjustment to the armscye and make bands. I wanted to have a finished armband of 1/2″ to keep it close to the look of the current neckband. With the seam allowance of 1/4″ for the bodice piece, I marked and removed 1/4″ from the armscyce, which made my finished tank hit the same place as the sleeveless muslin. Be sure to make this adjustment on both the front and back bodice pieces.

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I love to keep my pattern pieces together as much as I can, so I usually tape in the center of my cut, and make a kind of hinge. Then I can fold back the piece I need to remove to make a tank or leave it down for a sleeved version.

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To figure out my bands, I measured the new armscyce and multiplied it by 90%. I like to use 90% for cupro since it has less stretch and I didn’t want my armbands tight, just a comfortable fit. My bands ended up being 17 3/8″ x 1 1/2″ for reference. To make a simple tank version, that is all you need to do. You would follow the pattern tutorial for assembly, with the exception of skipping steps 6 & 7, do step 8, and then attach your armbands.

Now for the “extra” stuff 😂 I really wanted my armbands and neckband to match the bodice colors exactly. To do that, I needed to make my neckband two pieces, and one of my armbands, two pieces as well.

For my neckband I needed gray for one front bodice piece and the back bodice piece, then black for the other front bodice piece. So I measured those two pieces separately, multiplied them each by 85% (yes, 85%. I was worried it wouldn’t hold me in if I did longer, but in retrospect, 90% would have worked as well with this cupro) and cut the two out, using the same width as the original neckband piece. I then sewed them right sides together to make my complete neckband.

For the one armband that had a black front and a grey back, I simply measured the front bodice armscye and multiplied that by 90% for the black portion, and measured the back bodice armscye, multiplied by 90%, to get the grey portion. Sewed the two pieces right sides together, and had the matching armband.

When sewing, you will just match up those seams with the coordinating bodice seams and attach. The tricky part for me was the neckband. Since the shoulder seam is not the quarter point, I had to be extra careful with how much I was stretching and make sure the color block seams met. Of course it was my armband that ended up a little off, but for the most part, it looks like one seam.

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I should note, I did all my color blocking and measuring, AFTER I had already graded the pattern and added length for my side waist, rise, and legs. 

The last modification I made to the pattern was adding in the black stripe to the legs. After looking at my pattern piece and the pinspiration photo, I decided I wanted to make the stripe around 3″ wide. I didn’t feel like making two separate pattern pieces for the color block, so I took my front pant piece and measured in from the outer seam, 2.75″.

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I measured and marked the entire length of the pants piece and then connected the marks to make a smooth line. I used the same “hinge” technique for this and cut up and down the line, leaving my secured piece in the middle.

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It is very important that you account for whatever seam allowance you want to use for sewing these two pieces together, or your pants will be too small.

I like to use 1/4″ so when I cut out my grey piece, I cut 1/4″ out from the pattern edge. Then I flipped the main portion back and cut out my black stripe, again adding 1/4″ to the color blocked edge. I figured out that my rotary edge is about 1/4″ away from the blade, so I just line that up with the fabric and it cuts and adds the 1/4″ all in one step.

Once you have your stripes and front pant pieces cut out, you will just sew them right sides together, to create your full pattern pieces, and assemble per the pattern tutorial.

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I am ridiculously pleased with this final jumpsuit and know I will be making other versions of Hollywood with the tank modification. What do you think? Pinterest Nail or Fail?

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Enabler alert. The Hollywood is from Sonia Estep Designs and on sale for 50% off until January 26th, 11:59pm EST. The pattern options include a crossover bodice with three sleeve lengths, a shorts romper (in three lengths), a pants jumpsuit, and a skirted shorts romper. Plus you can do a simple mod and make your own tank version 😉

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash.

 

My first sew in 5 weeks – Nicolette

I have been unable to sew for 5 weeks due to our DIY entire kitchen remodel. More on that in a later post. As this remodel was winding down I was able to sneak in a little sewing time this week and make the most amazing dress!

I am so blessed to be part of the team over at Sonia Estep Designs and we just launched the first pattern, Nicolette. Let me tell you about Nicolette. It has two neckline options ( v neck and scoop), three sleeve options ( tank, short sleeve, and cold shoulder short sleeve), and several length options. You can do a shirt, above knee, knee, and maxi length. If that isn’t enough, there is even a color blocked maxi and optional slit. I like how the back is cut mirrored for extra design options, easy sway back adjustments, and most important, squeezing a swingy dress out of less fabric.

The Nicolette covers the 00-22 size range and has an amazing feature I just love. You ready for this?? It comes with both the overlap pattern option and the edge to edge pattern option, plus A0. If I have to print at home, I prefer to use the edge to edge since my printer likes to mess with me and it allows me to just fold up the pattern quickly into a nice pile I can slip into a manilla envelope. But if you like your overlapping patterns, you can totally do that option too.

When this pattern was being created and tested, I made two versions.

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This blue above knee length tank, in a bamboo spandex from So Sew English Fabrics. I have worn this dress so many times, it’s not even funny. The pattern changed a little after this one, but to add a little more swing and get this look, you can just flare out your skirt portion a little.

My second one was this maxi.

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I have been hoarding this ITY from So Sew English from last year. I knew it needed to be a maxi but was indecisive on which one. Nicolette won the day and adding that slit option really takes it up a notch for me. They don’t have this ITY in stock anymore, but there are so many other gorgeous ITY options that would be stunning as a Nicolette.

Now, for the one I made this week. I seriously had a small window of time to sneak in some sewing. If you saw my IG post, you probably saw me sewing it up at our makeshift kitchen counter/kitchen everything. It was such a fast sew that my husband ran to the hardware store for supplies and I made it in the time he was gone. I know, I’m impressed, I’m usually a super slow seamstress.

I saw a picture on Pinterest and it was my inspiration for using red. I’ve done red here and there and have branched out to include it more, but this was my first red dress. I was nervous. Turns out I like red and so does my family. Both my kids and husband complemented me on it when I was heading outside to take my pictures.


What Pinterest inspiration picture would be complete without trying to recreate the pose?? Ya’ll, I feel like I’m sniffing my armpit 😂. Can I hashtag this?? #notamodel

I used a new fabric from So Sew English for this red version. It is Modal Ponte. Modal and Ponte are two of my favorite fabrics so I was really interested in trying this blend. I love it ! It doesn’t have the structure of Ponte, so no leggings, but it definitely has the smooth handling I love about Ponte. It has a little less drape than straight modal, and is a bit more opaque than regular modal as well. AND, it breathes so well! I really think I need to get a few more of the colors to have in my permastash. It sewed up so nicely, no curling edges like rayon spandex either. They have some left in stock if you are interested in checking it out yourself. Enabler Alert – So Sew English is having a mostly site wide sale until 7/6 midnite PST. Use code 4TH25 to get 25% off your order.

Since Nicolette just released, it is on sale as well. 50% off!! Until Sunday, 7/7 midnite EST. You can get it here.

Curious how to style your Nicolette? Look for my next blog post where I share the 7 ways I plan to wear my red above knee Nicolette.

This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own.