Hoodies. Ahh yes, I love hoodies. There are so many different changes and hacks you can do to hoodies and it completely changes the look. One of my favorite changes is adding a lining to the hood. Unlined hoods are great when you need to use less fabric but unlined also means you can see my stitches *gasp*. Unlined means the wrong side of the fabric is showing and is against my head and neck. I don’t know about you, but I usually prefer the feel of the outside of most fabrics. I particularly like to line my hoods with an accent fabric, which was the case with this recent Lane raglan hoodie I made with french terry from my So Sew English Fabrics stash.
I have lined hoods before but always with detailed instructions included in the patterns. The Lane raglan hood doesn’t include a lined option, yet looking around the Hey June Handmade facebook group I saw a bunch of lined versions. I read through post, after post, after post, looking for instructions on how they modified the pattern to accommodate a lined hood. I took all that information, added my past lined hood experiences, and I felt comfortable giving it a try. It turned out so cute with that accent lining and ridiculously comfortable to boot.
This is how I lined my Lane raglan hood.
I didn’t need the full 1” hem that the unlined hood has around the front curve. I left in my ¼” seam allowance, for sewing the lining to the main outer fabric, and removed the remaining ¾”. To remove I took my hood pattern piece and measured ¾” from the front edge. I marked it and continued the same all the way down the pattern piece. (dashed lines below)
Then I connected the dashed lines to make a smooth line for cutting. (red line below)
Cut off that extra strip and you have your new hood pattern piece.
Using your new hood pattern piece, cut two mirrored in your lining fabric (charcoal) and cut two mirrored hood pieces in your main outer fabric (print)
*TIME SAVING TIP* Fold your fabric right sides together (RST), lay your hood pattern on top, and cut both layers at once. Placing your fabric RST here will allow it to be lined up and ready for the next step.
Place your two main outer hood pieces RST. If you used the time saving tip, this is already done. Clip and sew along the outer curve of the two. Repeat with the two lining pieces.
Now you have two hoods, one in the outer fabric and one in the lining fabric.
Take the outer hood and place it inside the lining hood, RST. Line up the center seams we just made. Clip and sew along the top front edge. This will make your two hoods into one.
Take your hood and turn it right sides out with both the lining and outer hood wrong sides together (WST). You will now have your lined hood ready to attach to your shirt. If you choose to, you can also topstitich along the front outer curve.
I prefer not to have a drawstring in my hoodies. If you wanted to add one, this is when you would add a line of topstitching on the front curve to create a channel for the drawstring. If you didn’t make your grommet hole yet, you can also do that now, before adding the topstitching for the channel.
At this point you will follow the rest of the pattern instructions and attach the hood as though it was a single hood. Look at how pretty that looks !
The Lane raglan comes in sizes XS – 2XL and has a variety of options. Sleeves can be elbow length, 3/4 length, long, or long with bands. The hem can be curved or banded. You can do a hood or regular neckband, thumb hole wristbands and even a chest pocket. Bonus for those of you who need a full bust adjustment (FBA), it includes a separate pattern piece with it built in, how cool is that? The options I used were the curved hem and long sleeves. Besides the usual grading for height and width, I made no other changes to the pattern. Both these hoodies were made using French Terry from So Sew English Fabrics. ****Enabler alert – they are having a 20% off moving sale until Friday, January 25th at 12 PM PST. The code is in the So Sew English Facebook group.****
As beautiful as this hoodie turned out, you won’t see me wearing it. It was made for a friend and is happily joining her closet. ❤
This post may contain affiliate links. This means if you make a purchase through that link, I may get a % back, at no additional cost to you. Let’s be honest, we all know it goes right back to adding to my fabric stash. All opinions on this blog are my own and I have a lot, ha ha ha.